Brewing a Blonde ale style beer with WLP090 “San Diego Super Yeast”. This was the second use of this batch of yeast. The ferment started normally, and continued bubbling normally…and stopped bubbling normally. However, the beer is still cloudy – the yeast won’t floculate. I’ll take a specific gravity reading tonight. any ideas appreciated.
Just did my first brew in a bag (BIAB) after about 60 extract and all grain beers. WOW, I think I’m a convert – hit all our numbers, easier, less to clean, all positive on the FUN scale.
The Method: read up on Brulosophy, and ordered the same BIAB Bag they recommend – a very nice bag – should last forever and can easily handle the quantiy and weight of 5 (or even 10) gallon batches
Here is the site for the brew bag ( I also ordered the clips and gloves – glad I did)
The Brew Bag
My son and I brewed up a batch of Oatmeal stout. 5 gallon batch, used Beersmith 2.0 to set it up, with the ’10G Electric Urn BIAB profile’, this profile shows 70% BH efficiency and 80% Mash Efficiency. We actually beat our numbers by a point. In fact, we got a higher overall efficiency than I’ve been getting in with my 5G water cooler mashtun.
The day was SUPER HOT (106*F) here in lovely Nor Cal. So we didn’t do anything to insulate the 10G stainless steel mashtun, and our pitch ended up a littler hotter than we wanted – but it dropped about 4*F over the 1 hour conversion – all starch converted. We slowly heated to 168*F, and pulled out the bag of grains. With about 13# of total grain – we didn’t need a pulley hoist – though it might have been nice. I squeezed the bag a bit while my son lifted. Then we set it in another pot, to let the grains naturally drain while we brought the wort to a boil.
We poured in the remaining wort into the pot. From there, it was pretty much a standard brew day. I’d guess overall, saved maybe an hour or more from the brew time. HIt all our numbers, should be a great beer. Pitched with WLP002 that I’d harvested from a batch of ESB. 002 is a nice yeast, attenuates well, but also leaves a little sweetness behind.
I started brewing in 1992, a white food grade bucket, lid, bubbler, a can of wort syrup, and a packet of yeast. That combined with hot Houston summer yielded some *interesting* brews. Over time I moved to cooler climates, upgraded equipment, etc.
What I realized…I did it all wrong, I purchased my equipment backwards. I should have started with a fermentation fridge this (along with good cleaning and sanitation) has had the biggest impact on my brewing.
If I were to start today, I’d buy a fermentation fridge (craigslist), a temperature controller (or at least a light timer to limit ON times), a bucket, lid, bubbler, wort syrup, and White Labs or WYEAST (though the dry yeasts are actually quite good).
Next would be full wort brewing, a kettle large enough to boil down from ~7G to about 6 gallons of wort.
Next would be all grain. This does add a lot of fun and control to what you can do. Plus, you *feel* like a real brewer. At this point, I would also decide what direction I want to follow, and spend *MORE* than I’d like. I’d buy up to the brew sculpture and equipment that would last me, and potentially grow with me. For example, I’ve ended up with a Top Tier (used) which I love. A mix of pots and a 5G cooler (mashtun).
In the discard pile, I have two burners (one Crawfish boiler – I did mention Houston, and one turkey Fryer). One brew bucket (I now use glass carboys). I guess that’s about it.
Likely soon in the discard pile, the 5G water cooler (Mashtun, it was actually originally for soccer practice), As I’m looking to move to a Metal pot Mashtun, capable of no sparge mash.
Another direction I’ve considered, and still want to try. Some of the all in one brew systems, ‘GrainFather’ or ‘Brau Supply Unibrau System’ or the Blichman. The upfront cost of these systems is high….but it’s all there.
Finally setup a fermentation fridge. I started from a used, abused, and ignored LARGE dorm fridge. This is a real fridge with compressor etc. This would have accepted a 5 gallon
carboy with little modification, but I was using my 6.5 gallon carboy, so more modification was required. What I needed to do,
1. remove the shelves
2. remove the door liner (plastic liner that also includes soda shelves) This was held in place by about 20 screws, and also holds in the rubber door gasket
3. had to carve out some of the door insulation
The carboy sits fine in the fridge. Next was temp control. I have a johnson control on order, but was impatient. So I set the fridge to a warmer temperature (turns out to be about 55*F). I would then manually plug and unplug to maintain temp. It holds temp pretty well – there is a lot of thermal inertia in the 5 gallons of wort. Then one night, I forgot to unplug, and by morning my wort was down to about 60*F. So, now I’ve added a timed controller, which will turn on the unit for about 30 minutes in the morning and afternoon. I then run an extra cycle if needed to hold to about 65*F. I’m surprised how well the unit holds temp. I have a arduino based temperature module that tracks temp, average, high and low*. I’ve taped the temp sensor to the side of the carboy, and it reads very close to what the temperature tape shows. It does average a bit with ambient temp – but not too bad.
notes: * yes there is a bug in my code, and the low sometimes gets wonky (showing a very large negative temp here)
just got back into it. Was on delay while we replaced our deck (aka my brewery). A new composited deck, so my old turkey fryer wouldn’t work anymore (don’t want to melt the deck). I picked up a used Blichmann Top Tier with two burners and a therminator – wow. The burners are great – quiet, powerful, clean. and the therminator amazing
like so many hobbies, seems like brewing is one that I get intense about for a year+, then back off for a while .
I’m still only focused on beers I can’t really get in the store
a great stout (mine is oatmeal)
a great ordinary bitter…I live in the US
sometimes a great blonde ale
have added a vanilla porter (daughters favorite)
playing around with a mild
also plan to perfect a classic 70’s American Pilsner – lawnmower beer
occasionally brew a German Wheat beer for when my brother is in town.
focused on quality…and love to add new toys to the mix.
in the end, seems to be all about cleanliness and temperature
the damp rid worked GREAT! within 24 hours of putting it in the Keezer – the air inside smelled dry. No more mold problem. this was a cheap, good fix. btw, I got a two pack at Lowes for only $6. should last a long time in this small space. Brew On!
I’ve had a recent problem with mold in my keezer. I live in the Sacrameno area – dry in summer, cool – sometimes moist in winter (rainy season). I setup my keezer last summer – no issues. However, over the winter I developed a mold problem. I’ve added a tub of damp rid (http://www.damprid.com/) to the keezer. After just 1 day – the smell of mold is gone – let’s see how this works.
Added a new time lapse image of Oatmeal Stout fermenting … not as exciting as I’d hoped. This was my third fermentation on this yeast. WLP006, Bedford British Ale yeast – tasted this at White Labs tasting room and Really liked it. A little sweeter than Cal Ale – nice for browns and stouts. I also brewed a batch of Blonde Ale with the yeast – good, but I think I may go back to Cal Ale for that – need to let it get fully carbonated first. White Labs tasting room is fantastic. WOW, to taste that many yeasts side by side is really eye opening.
Just a quick one today. i posted this video to youtube a while back, one of my worts in a violent fermentation.
This was a west coast Pale Ale. You can see all the green hops in the wort…so violoent, looks like it’s boiling!